Box Method
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Box Method
by Admin/arthur Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:41 pm
The use of SOCKS is not recommended as their toe nails may get caught in them as well as any loose thread in a sleeping pouch or scent blanket that the suggies sleep with. You can tightly sew two semi large pieces of fleece together to make a sleeping blanket or pouch that goes in the box. There is no gaurantee this exact method or steps will work for every glider but did and does work for me. The MORE time you spend with your baby as long as you are not SCARING them the closer your bond will be.
INTRODUCTION:
This is a handbook on how to train(bond) to baby gliders, but also can be used on older sugar gliders. Older gliders take more time on each step. The step by step instructions are slow steps to give baby and owner time to adjust and time to trust each other. Some gliders will respond quicker to training(bonding). Some other gliders you will have to work harder(more patience) or for a longer period of time. If baby crabs at you as you are doing steps and it stops crabbing before the recommended time frame, you could go to the next step. If animal acts scared or goes back to crabbing or nipping, go back to the previous step and continue that step through the required time period. As you go through the steps a baby that is scared or nippy at first, eventually should calm down and tame down to his/her new family. I have seen mean(scared) babies turn around like turning a light switch off or on. They will sneak peaks at you through their box hole, or start coming to the front of their cage. Their normal scared or aggressive behavior will suddenly change. Don’t rush too fast through these steps, you have many years to enjoy each other if you win their trust in the beginning. In the following steps I recommend the minimum once per day(everyday) or the minimum handling time, or in the pouch time. If you are home or have extra time you could go in box up to three to five times per day, at different times during the day so baby can sleep in between times. This will help baby to get use to you at first. These steps are to be done during daylight hours unless otherwise mentioned. There is one step later that is done at night.
STEP 1:
LEAVE BABY ALONE!
Leave baby alone for 2 to 4 days. This is an important step. Don’t rush his/her training. When you get your new baby home get their cage set up with food dishes and water bottle or water dish. Feed and give baby fresh water every day. Put your new baby in their home and leave alone for a couple of days. Do not try to handle baby at this time. When you feed and water your glider talk very quietly to it, almost whisper to it. Say it’s name to it and establish a recognition noise. This is a noise you will make every time you enter it’s cage or when you walk by the cage. I do it as to say hello to my gliders as I go in to wake them up. The noise I use is like a kissy noise or lip smacks ( like a quiet kiss). You should use the same “noise” you choose for the rest of the gliders life. When I go in to handle babies with the adults I make my “noise” and the parents don’t crab, if I don’t make my “noise” sometimes they crab until I make “noise” or until I talk to them(same with the babies). Sugar gliders are scent and noise recognition animals, they mark each other, mark territory, and verbally talk to each other. You want them to treat you as part of their family, if they scent(drip drops from hind end) or sqwaggle(word I made up, see behavior) to me this is a compliment, because they are claiming me into their family!
2 STEP 2 A
RECOGNITION “NOISE”
As you open the cage make your recognition “noise” and say baby’s name.* Then open box lid and again make “noise”. Leave box lid open for thirty seconds to one minute, all the while talking very quietly to baby.**Then close box lid gently and say name and make your “noise”. If crabbing or lunging at you stops try step 2b(some babies don’t crab or lunge), otherwise do this step for three to seven days. If baby jumps out every time 2to3 times in a row, don’t open lid so high up, so it doesn’t jump out. This jumping out is a scared response and not being bonded to his/her new nest box. You need to do this step at least once per day, you can do it up to about five times a day. Do it at about same time everyday, but give time intervals in between as baby needs sleep time. As you walk by the cage at night make your “noise” and talk softly to baby.
*RESPONSE TO OPEN BOX:
1) Stand on hind legs and crab at you.
2) Lay on back and crab at you.
3) Bury up under bed material and crab.
4) jump out of nest box.
5) Just sit and look at you.
**We recommend a wooden nest box, it seems to make certain steps of training(bonding) easier.
3
STEP 2 B:
SCENT RECOGNITION
After baby is use to his/her surroundings you can really start their training(bonding). At about same time everyday (not at night time), after nine am and before four pm, if .. possible. You open box lid and talk quietly and make your “noise”, then put your knuckles up to baby VERY SLOWLY! to smell for at least a couple of seconds, then move back and close the box lid. If sugar glider jumps out of box, just close box lid and cage, it will go back in later when it feels secure. DO NOT chase baby around cage to put back in the box! Do this step for one week everyday at least once per day. If baby lunges at you and nips it probably will be a glancing blow. If you put the tip of your finger out at first and it nips it could latch on or be a puncture bite(that’s the worst case). I always use my knuckles when I first start training. Do not be scared of the glancing nip, it should pass as training(bonding) continues. Do not jump back or pull away suddenly and try not to pull away until crabbing (if any) stops or the intensity changes. Don’t be scared the baby is scared enough for the both of you. Let baby sugar glider smell your *knuckles for a few seconds to couple of minutes depending on their reaction. Do this step for five to seven days or if crabbing intensity changes or subsides. If baby stops crabbing after smelling you at any time during step go ahead to next step.
STEP 2B TO STEP 3A:
SMELLING TO GIVING TREAT:
After five days to one week of previous step if crabbing doesn’t slow down or intensity change, and lunging and nipping at fingers continues(if at all some don’t do this type of behavior). Try giving it a treat, live crickets work best, if they have been raised on them. If they haven’t ask person you bought glider from what it’s FAVORITE HEALTHY TREAT is. You can try a cricket by squishing it and getting juice out so you can touch it to baby’s lips, when it gets a taste of it baby should like it. I also recommend giving frozen crickets and/or live meal worms as part of their diet at night. Live crickets(later after baby can handle them without getting bit it seems to stimulate the glider mentally). As for now you will have to squish the head so the cricket is not as likely to jump out or bite baby. If baby will not take the cricket as you open box, make “noise” and just drop the cricket in the box. You can go in later to see if baby ate their treat. I suggest only use treat once or twice a day. You may have to continue this step for three to five days more with treat until crabbing intensity changes or stops. It may crab when you first open box, but after it smells you the tone or intensity should change or crabbing should stop.
STEP 3 B:
TRY TO PET GLIDER AND REWARD:
If when starting this step you haven’t started giving a cricket(treat) when you wake baby up start doing it now. You are trying to reward (we hope) good behavior. As you open the cage and as you open the box lid remember to do your recognition “noise”. Open box lid slowly and talk(noise) as you do this, then put your hand up to baby to smell you, hopefully it will recognize you and crabbing will slow down or has stopped altogether. Reach around baby very slowly and pet baby on the back, then give it it’s treat and close the lid. Do this step for one to two weeks. The baby hopefully will start to look forward to seeing you and receiving their treat. They may even stand up on back legs when you open the box lid looking for their treat with no crabbing. If it will not let you pet it for crabbing, give it the treat and while it is eating then try to pet baby. Pet baby very lightly and move very slowly. Slow movement at first and baby recognizing that you are not going to hurt it or eat it are very important keys to successfully bonding tightly to your new family member. If baby will not take the treat from you, leave it in the box and check box later to see if it was eaten. If by now baby is not eating the treat or cricket, you need to find another healthy treat(but not nuts).
STEP 4 :
PET AND GIVE TREAT:
By the time you are at this step baby should take treat from you and let you pet it lightly on the back. You may also hear happy girgling or giggling sounds while being petted or eating treat. Also you could give baby live cricket at night or just before daybreak. Make baby come to the front of cage and hand cricket through the wire. You may still hear crabbing as you wake baby up, but it should have a tone change or subside after it recognizes your voice or smells your finger. Do this step for another week to ten days. Toward the end of the week you can try and slip your hand under baby as it eats the treat. If baby jumps off it’s ok, let it settle down into box and continue to try again next time, until time finished in this step. Remember to use baby’s name and your “noise” as you wake baby up. Baby may climb on your hand during day or at night as you feed it. This is good and you could go to next step earlier than recommended time frame.
STEP 5A:
PICK UP BABY SLOWLY! :
You can give baby their treat after you put baby back, unless baby taste nips you. This is very different than a scared nip or bite, it is like a pinch. I think it is a communicational nip, trying to tell you it wants a cricket or water. My friendliest female Peanut does this when we are traveling or at animal shows. If baby taste nips give it it’s treat as you are holding him/her. It might not eat the cricket at this step while baby is on you. OK back to handling baby. When you go into cage and box make sure you talk quietly, recognition “noise”, and let baby smell your hand, then very slowly reach under baby and pick it up. You might have to grasp baby so it doesn’t jump away. Cup baby with two hands one hand under and one hand over baby, then bring baby up against your chest. Talk quietly to it by name and use “noise”. If baby is quiet(no crabbing or nipping to get away) let baby look up at your face and hold for about five minutes, give or take on baby’s patience of being confined. If baby crabs hold for 1-2 minutes and try not to put back until crabbing tone or intensity changes or has stopped. I let baby go in the box through the hole with the lid down because sometimes they will jump out of your hand. Baby should come to the box entrance for it’s treat, if not then lift box lid and give treat. Do not put baby back while it is crabbing or nipping, let it calm down(if possible) first, even if it is just the tone of the crabbing. If by this time you still have crabbing and/or nipping you probably have a stubborn or unhandled sugar glider.
5 A CON’T :
Patience is the key(if you went through all the other steps with the proper adjustment period), most babies by this time should crab at first(if at all) then should quiet down unless scared by noises. If baby nips after doing this step for about a week to ten days try gently pressing baby flat against your chest and see if crabbing stops or tone changes (talk to it as you do this in a friendly voice). This is you showing dominance over baby glider(be gentle). The nipping we are talking about is not a taste nip. It will be a hard nip with crabbing. Taste nips are done when the sugar glider is calm and he/she is tasting their new environment, like a two year old human baby, everything goes in the mouth! If baby is calm and quiet with no nipping after three days of five minutes(at least) per day. You can increase your time you hold baby and walk around as you hold baby cupped in your hands or with one hand up against your chest. Holding baby against your chest lightly is not the same as dominance hold against your chest. As you hold baby allow it to poke it’s head between your fingers to look around or to see where you are walking and what is happening around new environment. Don’t let glider loose, because it could still jump or run away if scared. Do this step at least one week or until baby is comfortable with you. Baby shouldn’t crab while being held and should feel relaxed and not struggling to get loose.
5 A CONT:
If baby is real calm in your hands you could open hands after week of previous handling in cupped hands. If baby tries to get away you could try “walking endless mile”, which is let baby squeeze through your one hand over to the other and so on and so on. Squeeze gently but firm so baby has a tight squeeze to get through your hand and so you can control so baby will not jump away(if baby tries to jump away at all). If baby does jump away from you (VERY IMPORTANT) DO NOT CHASE BABY AND MISS WHEN YOU POUNCE TO CATCH IT. Let baby get cornered or climb up something then pounce all at once to catch it. It probably will crab or nip don’t let go, cup against chest and put back in cage. These un-bonded baby sugar gliders being chased before bonding makes them fearful and/or mean. If baby jumps off and does not run away, just walk up to baby and pick it up. Baby is just investigating new surroundings. The more times you hold baby cupped, baby against your chest and/or walking mile the faster the baby will train(bond) to you, provided the baby is not crabbing or biting at this stage. You could pick baby up several times a day if baby recognizes you and is calm with you handling it.
STEP 5 B :
HANDLING BABY AROUND HOUSE:
Handle baby at least once per day up to 3-5 times per day for five to fifteen minutes. Walk with baby cupped on chest lightly or in your hands. If you haven’t been walking around house with baby try doing so at this step. Let baby look through your fingers(if it wants to) as you walk and talk name and make “noise”. Baby should be sneaking looks at you as you do this. Let baby see different rooms of your house, show him/her their cage from where you walk or sit down and hold for some time. If baby is really content in your hands you can hold for longer time periods. If baby is relaxed you could try and open your hand some to see if baby will stay or is going to run up to your shoulder. As long as you are walking around the baby should stay on your shoulder. When you stop baby could jump off to go and investigate territory. Walk up to baby and you should be able to put baby back on your shoulder. As you go into next step(pouch bonding) always before you put baby in pouch hold him/her for a few minutes to five minutes. Eventually as you take baby out to put it in pouch baby will want to go into pouch on it’s own. Also you could sit down and put your hand in pouch for ten to fifteen minutes, two or three times a day at different times. This will tighten your smell bond and baby may crawl under your hand or climb on hand in pouch and cuddle up and go to sleep.
STEP 6 :
CARRY IN POUCH OR T-SHIRT POUCH:
When going to pick up, as you go into cage talk quietly to baby and make recognition “noise”, then open box lid and let baby smell your finger(you should be able to use finger now instead of knuckles), and then slowly pick baby up. Hold baby up to your chest for one to five minutes then put baby in shirt pouch or carry/bonding pouch. If using our designed t-shirt pouch make sure you don’t zip it completely closed. Leave a small air hole, if baby tries to put head out of it, then zip completely closed for NO more than 10-15minutes. Baby should settle down within this time period. Then unzip a little to make sure baby has ventilation. The baby should be ok zipped closed for very short period but I always leave it unzipped a tiny bit. When you first put baby in t-shirt pouch it might try to nudge it’s way out, because it is something new. Talk to baby, make “noise”, and touch baby through the material to re-assure it. If after thirty minutes baby has not settled down(during daylight hours), then take part of it’s bedding(we use socks cut in half, also open on both ends of socks) and put it in the pouch. The recognition scent from it’s nest box should settle baby down to sleep. After baby settles down remember to unzip pouch slightly. Baby may crab when bumped or with loud sudden noises that it doesn’t recognize or when you unzip pouch to check on baby. This will depend on how tame your sugar glider is at this step of training. You can carry baby around house for an hour or two everyday. If baby continually crabs in pouch you may want to go back to carry the baby around house for some more time. If baby settles down and doesn’t crab as you do your activities around the house, you could keep baby in pouch for more than one or two hours. If after baby has been in pouch sleeping for an hour or more and then it nudges the zipper to try and get out, it probably is trying to communicate that it wants a treat, water, and out to go to the bathroom or go back to their nest box. I have an adult female that does this type of behavior. Peanut will nudge the top of t-shirt pouch and if I don’t let her out, she starts to pull at the zipper. I let her out and she gets or does what she wants then she goes in the pocket on her own. If you let your baby out make sure you keep your hands on or just above it, so it won’t jump off, until you see that it won’t jump off. After you have carried your baby in pouch or t-shirt pouch for 1-2 weeks around the house everyday and you hear no crabbing from strange noises you make or if you bump the baby, you can go to step seven. If baby still fights the pouch, just continue or try giving treat in the pouch and shorten time periods in the pouch. Baby may want to come out and spend time being held or re-assured. You can open zipper and look in at baby and re-assure with “noise” then zip pouch closed. When you put baby back in box pet baby and give treat also make your “noise”. If you have the regular bond or sleeping pouch you could sit down and put your hand in pouch with baby for an hour or two a day, at different time intervals. EX: put hand in for 10-15 minutes at a time, but do it 3-5 times a day.
STEP 7 :
BABY IN SHIRT POUCH OUTSIDE THE HOUSE:
If baby is adjusted to sleeping in t-shirt pouch you can now take him/her outside with you. When you wake baby up remember to say it’s name and make your “noise”. Make sure you leave air hole when zipping shirt closed. If baby wants to look out just open zipper(very small hole) just far enough so just the head squeezes out to look around, then I would suggest to gently push head back in pouch and zip closed. Sometimes these little guys are so curious they want to know what we are doing or where you are going. Make sure you are not in any direct sunlight(when they poke their head out) as this repeated direct exposure to sunlight can lead to blindness. At this time I would not recommend taking baby out of pouch, when you are outside of the confines of your home. Because out of your house all the smells and sounds are so different that baby could get scared and jump off and run away or up a tall tree. If you are out of your house with baby in the pouch or t-shirt watch how hot or cold it is outside. If you are cold or too hot baby probably is too. Sugar gliders like a temperature of 75-85 degrees, if it is cooler than this you can put a sock(ends cut off) in the pouch with baby to keep warm. If it’s too hot and you don’t have air then don’t take baby out, the same is true if you don’t have heat in your car and/or it is below 50 degrees. A good rule of thumb is if you are comfortable then it’s probably alright. If it’s too hot they will overheat, too cold and they could get chilled and could get sick.
STEP 8 :
BABY ON SHOULDER DURING DAYLIGHT HOURS IN HOUSE:
After baby has been use to being in pouch and being handled with no crabbing or struggling to get away from you. Your sugar glider should be able to ride on your shoulder, head, chest, back, arms and run all over you. At this step you are trying to get him/her to stay on your body and not to jump off. If it jumps off, it should not run scared, it should just sniff around or walk around and not run away. If it does run away scared you are not ready for this step yet. Go back to handling glider step until baby is relaxed in your hand. Do this step in darker than normal lighted room(not totally dark). Semi close blinds, lights dimmed or off, so animal will be comfortable on your shoulder. The other behavior you are looking for is as you walk baby around, that if baby gets startled by strange or loud noise it will come to you for protection instead of running and hiding. If baby gets startled from loud talking, paper crumbling, sudden strange loud noise, that he/she will run down your shirt, into pouch, under chin, in hair, for protection. If I am holding new baby and I see it get scared I put it down my shirt for security. You don’t want him/her to jump off, you want baby to come closer to you for comfort and security. You can wear your pouch or t-shirt pouch while you have baby on your shoulder. If baby goes in pouch on it’s own let it go in and go to sleep for one to two hours, then you can take him/her out later and try again.
STEP 9:
BABY ON YOU AT NIGHT IN HOUSE:
If everything has gone well and as designed up to this point you can now try this step. You should be able to have baby climb up on your hand or arm as you open their cage at night. Remember to talk to baby and make your recognition “noise” as you walk up to cage and open the door. If baby climbs on your hand or arm then just start walking around the house, baby may climb up to your shoulder for a better vantage point to look around. Your friend should be trained or bonded by now or you need to go back to previous step(s), for more handling or pouch carry time, only if baby crabs or bites you. If baby jumps off you it should not run away scared(just curious). If baby gets scared(shadows, loud strange noises) it should run down your shirt or in it’s pouch(if you have it on as you do this step). If it jumps off go and pick baby up, if it is shaking scared, put baby down your shirt or t-shirt pouch. Baby may come up to top of shirt or pocket pouch and just peek his/her head out. It may do this until it gets use to being on you at night(everything looks different at night). This is their most active time and it is hard to get them to sit still or stay in one place. Patience and a lot of retrieving of animal from jumping off will eventually will win out. If baby jumps off one or two times in a row(if you are standing still) then pick baby up and walk away from the spot where the baby jumped off at. Sometimes walking and seeing new things will keep them from jumping off. You could cup baby against your chest at first when you do this step at night.
STEP 9 CONT:
If you used a certain chair as you sat down and held baby in earlier steps, it may jump to the chair. They also play a little game at times: George(friendly to bonded male adult sugar glider) would climb out on my arm and ride on my shoulder until I walked by my favorite chair. Then he would jump on to the chair, when he was ready to go back to his cage. But when I would go to pick him up he would jump from side to side as to say “catch me if you can”. I would say Georgee a little louder than normal and he would stop and then climb up on me. He would not jump off me any where else but only to my chair. If your baby continues to jump off after a couple of weeks of continually picking it up and putting it back on your shoulder, then maybe your cage is too small and/or it needs an exercise wheel. If you have a glider that won’t run in the wheel you may have to teach it to use the wheel. Put your glider in the wheel and slowly turn the wheel. It probably will hang on or jump out, pick it up and put it back in the wheel and slowly try turning until animal starts to walk in it. Praise adult or baby glider and try turning the wheel until they get the idea(I had to do this to my older gliders when we first got the wheels, my babies learn to use it from watching the parents). The other thing you can do is glider proof one room that is designated to be their free roam or play room. This is the next step, if you want to do this, also they should enjoy this time loose with your supervision. If baby will not come to you in their cage at night, you can get them out about an hour before dark and put them in their pouch. When it gets dark outside they will want to
come out and play or to investigate.
STEP 10:
GIVING BABY PERMISSION TO PLAY IN DESIGNATED ROOM:
You can take baby/adult sugar glider into one certain room that you have glider “proofed”. This means that any possible way a glider can get hurt or injured on, must be removed. Such as but not limited to toilet seat up, fish aquariums, electric wires, any sharp objects, dangling strings(except for designated toys), poisons, poisonous plants, small holes in the wall and in other words safe for a two year old human baby, but on a smaller scale! Supervision and interaction play is still the best course of action if you let your glider loose in the room. When you walk into the room with the glider on your shoulder you should pick one spot to always put glider down at to play. They should learn that it is accepted behavior to go run and play in this particular room. Do not let him/her jump off you in any other room if you want them to only run loose in their room. If they jump off in another room just go and pick them up and walk away from that spot. When you have your glider in their room they should go and investigate the room and eventually come back to interact with you. He/she may jump on your shoulder and give you a light pinch on the ear or put their nose in your ear and purr(or give you a wet willie in the ear). I have some that do this type of bonded behavior. When mine do this I always pick them up and pet them and talk to them, then they are off to the races again. I think they are checking in with me, to see if everything is ok and for re-assurance. I f baby at first does not want to run and play, get a toy or string and start interacting with them. You can string large ropes(½ in. up to 1in in diameter) across your ceiling, like making a highway, they will run across these ropes at high speed on top or on the underside of the rope(even at the same time in opposite directions with two gliders). We take large picture hangers(3m hangers), tie the rope to eye hooks or large clip on hooks and attach hangers high up on the wall. We usually leave one rope hanging to the floor for easy access up to the super highway. It may take baby a few nights to get use to the idea of free play time. If baby doesn’t want to run and play I would not force the issue. If using cat toys make sure there is no catnip in the toy. You also could hang ladder toys and/or tunnels for them to jump on and to run through. You also could take their wodent wheel out of their cage with them and interact with them in the wheel. Eventually your sugar glider baby should go and investigate the new surroundings, you should stay within hearing and seeing range of animal until he/she is use to the new situation. You could put him/her on the rope to run and talk and re-assure them that it is all right to do play time.
STEP 11 :
BABY EATING CRICKET(TREAT) ON YOUR SHOULDER:
Some gliders may already be eating a treat on you, depending on when you give treat(to curb taste nips). Some tame gliders take a longer time before they will eat while sitting on you. The baby sugar glider has to feel comfortable with your body movements, before it will sit up and eat a cricket on your shoulder, or while sitting in your hand or hanging on to the front of your shirt. If baby comes to the front of your shirt, I always cup my hand under animal for balance(usually I have adult with babies on her). It’s hard to eat live cricket and hang on to you at the same time, especially eating with two hands. I suggest when you give the cricket you stand still while he/she is trying to eat it. If it doesn’t eat the treat on you I would not be too concerned about it, sooner or later they will come around to eating on you probably will make their happy sound. They have to trust your body movements enough so they don’t feel like they will fall off, especially sitting up and eating with two hands. You could try sitting in your glider bonding chair, that way you are stationary and there is no sudden movement when they are eating cricket(treat).
CONCLUSION:
The previous steps of training(bonding) is the way I bond to my baby sugar gliders and to my adult sugar gliders, although I start when mom has them oop for one day or less(sometimes they are at the in/out stage). I used the same steps on a rescued glider a woman gave me, because she was scared of crabbing and lunging at her. I also used this style of bonding on my first glider I got back in the year 2000(named Sugie). The rescued glider named Penny(she was so small by my standards for eight weeks), now she rides in my t-shirt pouch and goes shopping with me. She is a little apprehensive when I take her out to show people(she runs back in the pouch). She has her first two babies in the pouch, might be the reason for being a little unsure. Sugie my first one always jumps on my back as I walk into her cage and starts to scent me all over. At times she has left big wet spots on me when she sqwaggle’s me(it’s not pee, there is a difference). The point to these stories is that the steps worked on two different gliders and should work for you. I think the key to success is patience, repetition, consistently do the same ritual over and over again. Your glider may bond in one week(truly bonded would be hard to do in this short of time) or it may take many months. Actually I don’t think you ever stop bonding to your pet sugar glider, it is a continuous thing you do every time you pick them up, it tightens the bond. The more you handle your baby after recognition period the tamer(bonded) your pet will be. You can advance through the steps faster if you have gotten positive results through recognition step. If you are in their box more often than time specified you probably will be able to advance to the next step sooner. I have just gave you a slow guideline to follow and the signs to watch for as you are training(bonding) your new baby or adult sugar glider. If baby shows signs of being friendlier sooner, then go to next step, if you are going to speed up steps and it is too fast baby will let you know by doing bad(scared) behavior. Scared behavior could be as follows: crabbing, lunging and/or biting, and continuously taste nipping, jumping off or running away after adjustment and scent recognition period. If baby didn’t crab at previous step and then starts, you may be going too fast. If baby was crabbing and suddenly stops after seeing you then try next step. I think every gliding bonding experience is different. You know the babies attitude, you know if it is scared, you should see the changes as it gets used to you. If baby comes to you and climbs on don’t push away because you may not be on that step, just go with the flow, maybe baby is ready to go on to next step. A reminder as you go in to the cage and box(or sleeping pouch) talk to it, make your “noise”. You do this every time and for the life of the sugar glider. When you pick them up do the same things and I like to pet them for re-assurance before I put them in their go pouch. I hope this method will be successful for you as it is for me and all my pets(breeders) and my tightly and extremely bonded(trained) little fur balls of joy. Good luck and stick with your rituals and the amount of time spent each day.
Something I forgot is at night as you are doing recognition steps you could interact with baby through cage bars if baby is willing if baby runs to back of cage then don’t force it, but if baby comes to front of cage you could give treat or talk to it through the cage and this would help bonding process.
Written by Art/daddy glider
New Age Sugar gliders
INTRODUCTION:
This is a handbook on how to train(bond) to baby gliders, but also can be used on older sugar gliders. Older gliders take more time on each step. The step by step instructions are slow steps to give baby and owner time to adjust and time to trust each other. Some gliders will respond quicker to training(bonding). Some other gliders you will have to work harder(more patience) or for a longer period of time. If baby crabs at you as you are doing steps and it stops crabbing before the recommended time frame, you could go to the next step. If animal acts scared or goes back to crabbing or nipping, go back to the previous step and continue that step through the required time period. As you go through the steps a baby that is scared or nippy at first, eventually should calm down and tame down to his/her new family. I have seen mean(scared) babies turn around like turning a light switch off or on. They will sneak peaks at you through their box hole, or start coming to the front of their cage. Their normal scared or aggressive behavior will suddenly change. Don’t rush too fast through these steps, you have many years to enjoy each other if you win their trust in the beginning. In the following steps I recommend the minimum once per day(everyday) or the minimum handling time, or in the pouch time. If you are home or have extra time you could go in box up to three to five times per day, at different times during the day so baby can sleep in between times. This will help baby to get use to you at first. These steps are to be done during daylight hours unless otherwise mentioned. There is one step later that is done at night.
STEP 1:
LEAVE BABY ALONE!
Leave baby alone for 2 to 4 days. This is an important step. Don’t rush his/her training. When you get your new baby home get their cage set up with food dishes and water bottle or water dish. Feed and give baby fresh water every day. Put your new baby in their home and leave alone for a couple of days. Do not try to handle baby at this time. When you feed and water your glider talk very quietly to it, almost whisper to it. Say it’s name to it and establish a recognition noise. This is a noise you will make every time you enter it’s cage or when you walk by the cage. I do it as to say hello to my gliders as I go in to wake them up. The noise I use is like a kissy noise or lip smacks ( like a quiet kiss). You should use the same “noise” you choose for the rest of the gliders life. When I go in to handle babies with the adults I make my “noise” and the parents don’t crab, if I don’t make my “noise” sometimes they crab until I make “noise” or until I talk to them(same with the babies). Sugar gliders are scent and noise recognition animals, they mark each other, mark territory, and verbally talk to each other. You want them to treat you as part of their family, if they scent(drip drops from hind end) or sqwaggle(word I made up, see behavior) to me this is a compliment, because they are claiming me into their family!
2 STEP 2 A
RECOGNITION “NOISE”
As you open the cage make your recognition “noise” and say baby’s name.* Then open box lid and again make “noise”. Leave box lid open for thirty seconds to one minute, all the while talking very quietly to baby.**Then close box lid gently and say name and make your “noise”. If crabbing or lunging at you stops try step 2b(some babies don’t crab or lunge), otherwise do this step for three to seven days. If baby jumps out every time 2to3 times in a row, don’t open lid so high up, so it doesn’t jump out. This jumping out is a scared response and not being bonded to his/her new nest box. You need to do this step at least once per day, you can do it up to about five times a day. Do it at about same time everyday, but give time intervals in between as baby needs sleep time. As you walk by the cage at night make your “noise” and talk softly to baby.
*RESPONSE TO OPEN BOX:
1) Stand on hind legs and crab at you.
2) Lay on back and crab at you.
3) Bury up under bed material and crab.
4) jump out of nest box.
5) Just sit and look at you.
**We recommend a wooden nest box, it seems to make certain steps of training(bonding) easier.
3
STEP 2 B:
SCENT RECOGNITION
After baby is use to his/her surroundings you can really start their training(bonding). At about same time everyday (not at night time), after nine am and before four pm, if .. possible. You open box lid and talk quietly and make your “noise”, then put your knuckles up to baby VERY SLOWLY! to smell for at least a couple of seconds, then move back and close the box lid. If sugar glider jumps out of box, just close box lid and cage, it will go back in later when it feels secure. DO NOT chase baby around cage to put back in the box! Do this step for one week everyday at least once per day. If baby lunges at you and nips it probably will be a glancing blow. If you put the tip of your finger out at first and it nips it could latch on or be a puncture bite(that’s the worst case). I always use my knuckles when I first start training. Do not be scared of the glancing nip, it should pass as training(bonding) continues. Do not jump back or pull away suddenly and try not to pull away until crabbing (if any) stops or the intensity changes. Don’t be scared the baby is scared enough for the both of you. Let baby sugar glider smell your *knuckles for a few seconds to couple of minutes depending on their reaction. Do this step for five to seven days or if crabbing intensity changes or subsides. If baby stops crabbing after smelling you at any time during step go ahead to next step.
STEP 2B TO STEP 3A:
SMELLING TO GIVING TREAT:
After five days to one week of previous step if crabbing doesn’t slow down or intensity change, and lunging and nipping at fingers continues(if at all some don’t do this type of behavior). Try giving it a treat, live crickets work best, if they have been raised on them. If they haven’t ask person you bought glider from what it’s FAVORITE HEALTHY TREAT is. You can try a cricket by squishing it and getting juice out so you can touch it to baby’s lips, when it gets a taste of it baby should like it. I also recommend giving frozen crickets and/or live meal worms as part of their diet at night. Live crickets(later after baby can handle them without getting bit it seems to stimulate the glider mentally). As for now you will have to squish the head so the cricket is not as likely to jump out or bite baby. If baby will not take the cricket as you open box, make “noise” and just drop the cricket in the box. You can go in later to see if baby ate their treat. I suggest only use treat once or twice a day. You may have to continue this step for three to five days more with treat until crabbing intensity changes or stops. It may crab when you first open box, but after it smells you the tone or intensity should change or crabbing should stop.
STEP 3 B:
TRY TO PET GLIDER AND REWARD:
If when starting this step you haven’t started giving a cricket(treat) when you wake baby up start doing it now. You are trying to reward (we hope) good behavior. As you open the cage and as you open the box lid remember to do your recognition “noise”. Open box lid slowly and talk(noise) as you do this, then put your hand up to baby to smell you, hopefully it will recognize you and crabbing will slow down or has stopped altogether. Reach around baby very slowly and pet baby on the back, then give it it’s treat and close the lid. Do this step for one to two weeks. The baby hopefully will start to look forward to seeing you and receiving their treat. They may even stand up on back legs when you open the box lid looking for their treat with no crabbing. If it will not let you pet it for crabbing, give it the treat and while it is eating then try to pet baby. Pet baby very lightly and move very slowly. Slow movement at first and baby recognizing that you are not going to hurt it or eat it are very important keys to successfully bonding tightly to your new family member. If baby will not take the treat from you, leave it in the box and check box later to see if it was eaten. If by now baby is not eating the treat or cricket, you need to find another healthy treat(but not nuts).
STEP 4 :
PET AND GIVE TREAT:
By the time you are at this step baby should take treat from you and let you pet it lightly on the back. You may also hear happy girgling or giggling sounds while being petted or eating treat. Also you could give baby live cricket at night or just before daybreak. Make baby come to the front of cage and hand cricket through the wire. You may still hear crabbing as you wake baby up, but it should have a tone change or subside after it recognizes your voice or smells your finger. Do this step for another week to ten days. Toward the end of the week you can try and slip your hand under baby as it eats the treat. If baby jumps off it’s ok, let it settle down into box and continue to try again next time, until time finished in this step. Remember to use baby’s name and your “noise” as you wake baby up. Baby may climb on your hand during day or at night as you feed it. This is good and you could go to next step earlier than recommended time frame.
STEP 5A:
PICK UP BABY SLOWLY! :
You can give baby their treat after you put baby back, unless baby taste nips you. This is very different than a scared nip or bite, it is like a pinch. I think it is a communicational nip, trying to tell you it wants a cricket or water. My friendliest female Peanut does this when we are traveling or at animal shows. If baby taste nips give it it’s treat as you are holding him/her. It might not eat the cricket at this step while baby is on you. OK back to handling baby. When you go into cage and box make sure you talk quietly, recognition “noise”, and let baby smell your hand, then very slowly reach under baby and pick it up. You might have to grasp baby so it doesn’t jump away. Cup baby with two hands one hand under and one hand over baby, then bring baby up against your chest. Talk quietly to it by name and use “noise”. If baby is quiet(no crabbing or nipping to get away) let baby look up at your face and hold for about five minutes, give or take on baby’s patience of being confined. If baby crabs hold for 1-2 minutes and try not to put back until crabbing tone or intensity changes or has stopped. I let baby go in the box through the hole with the lid down because sometimes they will jump out of your hand. Baby should come to the box entrance for it’s treat, if not then lift box lid and give treat. Do not put baby back while it is crabbing or nipping, let it calm down(if possible) first, even if it is just the tone of the crabbing. If by this time you still have crabbing and/or nipping you probably have a stubborn or unhandled sugar glider.
5 A CON’T :
Patience is the key(if you went through all the other steps with the proper adjustment period), most babies by this time should crab at first(if at all) then should quiet down unless scared by noises. If baby nips after doing this step for about a week to ten days try gently pressing baby flat against your chest and see if crabbing stops or tone changes (talk to it as you do this in a friendly voice). This is you showing dominance over baby glider(be gentle). The nipping we are talking about is not a taste nip. It will be a hard nip with crabbing. Taste nips are done when the sugar glider is calm and he/she is tasting their new environment, like a two year old human baby, everything goes in the mouth! If baby is calm and quiet with no nipping after three days of five minutes(at least) per day. You can increase your time you hold baby and walk around as you hold baby cupped in your hands or with one hand up against your chest. Holding baby against your chest lightly is not the same as dominance hold against your chest. As you hold baby allow it to poke it’s head between your fingers to look around or to see where you are walking and what is happening around new environment. Don’t let glider loose, because it could still jump or run away if scared. Do this step at least one week or until baby is comfortable with you. Baby shouldn’t crab while being held and should feel relaxed and not struggling to get loose.
5 A CONT:
If baby is real calm in your hands you could open hands after week of previous handling in cupped hands. If baby tries to get away you could try “walking endless mile”, which is let baby squeeze through your one hand over to the other and so on and so on. Squeeze gently but firm so baby has a tight squeeze to get through your hand and so you can control so baby will not jump away(if baby tries to jump away at all). If baby does jump away from you (VERY IMPORTANT) DO NOT CHASE BABY AND MISS WHEN YOU POUNCE TO CATCH IT. Let baby get cornered or climb up something then pounce all at once to catch it. It probably will crab or nip don’t let go, cup against chest and put back in cage. These un-bonded baby sugar gliders being chased before bonding makes them fearful and/or mean. If baby jumps off and does not run away, just walk up to baby and pick it up. Baby is just investigating new surroundings. The more times you hold baby cupped, baby against your chest and/or walking mile the faster the baby will train(bond) to you, provided the baby is not crabbing or biting at this stage. You could pick baby up several times a day if baby recognizes you and is calm with you handling it.
STEP 5 B :
HANDLING BABY AROUND HOUSE:
Handle baby at least once per day up to 3-5 times per day for five to fifteen minutes. Walk with baby cupped on chest lightly or in your hands. If you haven’t been walking around house with baby try doing so at this step. Let baby look through your fingers(if it wants to) as you walk and talk name and make “noise”. Baby should be sneaking looks at you as you do this. Let baby see different rooms of your house, show him/her their cage from where you walk or sit down and hold for some time. If baby is really content in your hands you can hold for longer time periods. If baby is relaxed you could try and open your hand some to see if baby will stay or is going to run up to your shoulder. As long as you are walking around the baby should stay on your shoulder. When you stop baby could jump off to go and investigate territory. Walk up to baby and you should be able to put baby back on your shoulder. As you go into next step(pouch bonding) always before you put baby in pouch hold him/her for a few minutes to five minutes. Eventually as you take baby out to put it in pouch baby will want to go into pouch on it’s own. Also you could sit down and put your hand in pouch for ten to fifteen minutes, two or three times a day at different times. This will tighten your smell bond and baby may crawl under your hand or climb on hand in pouch and cuddle up and go to sleep.
STEP 6 :
CARRY IN POUCH OR T-SHIRT POUCH:
When going to pick up, as you go into cage talk quietly to baby and make recognition “noise”, then open box lid and let baby smell your finger(you should be able to use finger now instead of knuckles), and then slowly pick baby up. Hold baby up to your chest for one to five minutes then put baby in shirt pouch or carry/bonding pouch. If using our designed t-shirt pouch make sure you don’t zip it completely closed. Leave a small air hole, if baby tries to put head out of it, then zip completely closed for NO more than 10-15minutes. Baby should settle down within this time period. Then unzip a little to make sure baby has ventilation. The baby should be ok zipped closed for very short period but I always leave it unzipped a tiny bit. When you first put baby in t-shirt pouch it might try to nudge it’s way out, because it is something new. Talk to baby, make “noise”, and touch baby through the material to re-assure it. If after thirty minutes baby has not settled down(during daylight hours), then take part of it’s bedding(we use socks cut in half, also open on both ends of socks) and put it in the pouch. The recognition scent from it’s nest box should settle baby down to sleep. After baby settles down remember to unzip pouch slightly. Baby may crab when bumped or with loud sudden noises that it doesn’t recognize or when you unzip pouch to check on baby. This will depend on how tame your sugar glider is at this step of training. You can carry baby around house for an hour or two everyday. If baby continually crabs in pouch you may want to go back to carry the baby around house for some more time. If baby settles down and doesn’t crab as you do your activities around the house, you could keep baby in pouch for more than one or two hours. If after baby has been in pouch sleeping for an hour or more and then it nudges the zipper to try and get out, it probably is trying to communicate that it wants a treat, water, and out to go to the bathroom or go back to their nest box. I have an adult female that does this type of behavior. Peanut will nudge the top of t-shirt pouch and if I don’t let her out, she starts to pull at the zipper. I let her out and she gets or does what she wants then she goes in the pocket on her own. If you let your baby out make sure you keep your hands on or just above it, so it won’t jump off, until you see that it won’t jump off. After you have carried your baby in pouch or t-shirt pouch for 1-2 weeks around the house everyday and you hear no crabbing from strange noises you make or if you bump the baby, you can go to step seven. If baby still fights the pouch, just continue or try giving treat in the pouch and shorten time periods in the pouch. Baby may want to come out and spend time being held or re-assured. You can open zipper and look in at baby and re-assure with “noise” then zip pouch closed. When you put baby back in box pet baby and give treat also make your “noise”. If you have the regular bond or sleeping pouch you could sit down and put your hand in pouch with baby for an hour or two a day, at different time intervals. EX: put hand in for 10-15 minutes at a time, but do it 3-5 times a day.
STEP 7 :
BABY IN SHIRT POUCH OUTSIDE THE HOUSE:
If baby is adjusted to sleeping in t-shirt pouch you can now take him/her outside with you. When you wake baby up remember to say it’s name and make your “noise”. Make sure you leave air hole when zipping shirt closed. If baby wants to look out just open zipper(very small hole) just far enough so just the head squeezes out to look around, then I would suggest to gently push head back in pouch and zip closed. Sometimes these little guys are so curious they want to know what we are doing or where you are going. Make sure you are not in any direct sunlight(when they poke their head out) as this repeated direct exposure to sunlight can lead to blindness. At this time I would not recommend taking baby out of pouch, when you are outside of the confines of your home. Because out of your house all the smells and sounds are so different that baby could get scared and jump off and run away or up a tall tree. If you are out of your house with baby in the pouch or t-shirt watch how hot or cold it is outside. If you are cold or too hot baby probably is too. Sugar gliders like a temperature of 75-85 degrees, if it is cooler than this you can put a sock(ends cut off) in the pouch with baby to keep warm. If it’s too hot and you don’t have air then don’t take baby out, the same is true if you don’t have heat in your car and/or it is below 50 degrees. A good rule of thumb is if you are comfortable then it’s probably alright. If it’s too hot they will overheat, too cold and they could get chilled and could get sick.
STEP 8 :
BABY ON SHOULDER DURING DAYLIGHT HOURS IN HOUSE:
After baby has been use to being in pouch and being handled with no crabbing or struggling to get away from you. Your sugar glider should be able to ride on your shoulder, head, chest, back, arms and run all over you. At this step you are trying to get him/her to stay on your body and not to jump off. If it jumps off, it should not run scared, it should just sniff around or walk around and not run away. If it does run away scared you are not ready for this step yet. Go back to handling glider step until baby is relaxed in your hand. Do this step in darker than normal lighted room(not totally dark). Semi close blinds, lights dimmed or off, so animal will be comfortable on your shoulder. The other behavior you are looking for is as you walk baby around, that if baby gets startled by strange or loud noise it will come to you for protection instead of running and hiding. If baby gets startled from loud talking, paper crumbling, sudden strange loud noise, that he/she will run down your shirt, into pouch, under chin, in hair, for protection. If I am holding new baby and I see it get scared I put it down my shirt for security. You don’t want him/her to jump off, you want baby to come closer to you for comfort and security. You can wear your pouch or t-shirt pouch while you have baby on your shoulder. If baby goes in pouch on it’s own let it go in and go to sleep for one to two hours, then you can take him/her out later and try again.
STEP 9:
BABY ON YOU AT NIGHT IN HOUSE:
If everything has gone well and as designed up to this point you can now try this step. You should be able to have baby climb up on your hand or arm as you open their cage at night. Remember to talk to baby and make your recognition “noise” as you walk up to cage and open the door. If baby climbs on your hand or arm then just start walking around the house, baby may climb up to your shoulder for a better vantage point to look around. Your friend should be trained or bonded by now or you need to go back to previous step(s), for more handling or pouch carry time, only if baby crabs or bites you. If baby jumps off you it should not run away scared(just curious). If baby gets scared(shadows, loud strange noises) it should run down your shirt or in it’s pouch(if you have it on as you do this step). If it jumps off go and pick baby up, if it is shaking scared, put baby down your shirt or t-shirt pouch. Baby may come up to top of shirt or pocket pouch and just peek his/her head out. It may do this until it gets use to being on you at night(everything looks different at night). This is their most active time and it is hard to get them to sit still or stay in one place. Patience and a lot of retrieving of animal from jumping off will eventually will win out. If baby jumps off one or two times in a row(if you are standing still) then pick baby up and walk away from the spot where the baby jumped off at. Sometimes walking and seeing new things will keep them from jumping off. You could cup baby against your chest at first when you do this step at night.
STEP 9 CONT:
If you used a certain chair as you sat down and held baby in earlier steps, it may jump to the chair. They also play a little game at times: George(friendly to bonded male adult sugar glider) would climb out on my arm and ride on my shoulder until I walked by my favorite chair. Then he would jump on to the chair, when he was ready to go back to his cage. But when I would go to pick him up he would jump from side to side as to say “catch me if you can”. I would say Georgee a little louder than normal and he would stop and then climb up on me. He would not jump off me any where else but only to my chair. If your baby continues to jump off after a couple of weeks of continually picking it up and putting it back on your shoulder, then maybe your cage is too small and/or it needs an exercise wheel. If you have a glider that won’t run in the wheel you may have to teach it to use the wheel. Put your glider in the wheel and slowly turn the wheel. It probably will hang on or jump out, pick it up and put it back in the wheel and slowly try turning until animal starts to walk in it. Praise adult or baby glider and try turning the wheel until they get the idea(I had to do this to my older gliders when we first got the wheels, my babies learn to use it from watching the parents). The other thing you can do is glider proof one room that is designated to be their free roam or play room. This is the next step, if you want to do this, also they should enjoy this time loose with your supervision. If baby will not come to you in their cage at night, you can get them out about an hour before dark and put them in their pouch. When it gets dark outside they will want to
come out and play or to investigate.
STEP 10:
GIVING BABY PERMISSION TO PLAY IN DESIGNATED ROOM:
You can take baby/adult sugar glider into one certain room that you have glider “proofed”. This means that any possible way a glider can get hurt or injured on, must be removed. Such as but not limited to toilet seat up, fish aquariums, electric wires, any sharp objects, dangling strings(except for designated toys), poisons, poisonous plants, small holes in the wall and in other words safe for a two year old human baby, but on a smaller scale! Supervision and interaction play is still the best course of action if you let your glider loose in the room. When you walk into the room with the glider on your shoulder you should pick one spot to always put glider down at to play. They should learn that it is accepted behavior to go run and play in this particular room. Do not let him/her jump off you in any other room if you want them to only run loose in their room. If they jump off in another room just go and pick them up and walk away from that spot. When you have your glider in their room they should go and investigate the room and eventually come back to interact with you. He/she may jump on your shoulder and give you a light pinch on the ear or put their nose in your ear and purr(or give you a wet willie in the ear). I have some that do this type of bonded behavior. When mine do this I always pick them up and pet them and talk to them, then they are off to the races again. I think they are checking in with me, to see if everything is ok and for re-assurance. I f baby at first does not want to run and play, get a toy or string and start interacting with them. You can string large ropes(½ in. up to 1in in diameter) across your ceiling, like making a highway, they will run across these ropes at high speed on top or on the underside of the rope(even at the same time in opposite directions with two gliders). We take large picture hangers(3m hangers), tie the rope to eye hooks or large clip on hooks and attach hangers high up on the wall. We usually leave one rope hanging to the floor for easy access up to the super highway. It may take baby a few nights to get use to the idea of free play time. If baby doesn’t want to run and play I would not force the issue. If using cat toys make sure there is no catnip in the toy. You also could hang ladder toys and/or tunnels for them to jump on and to run through. You also could take their wodent wheel out of their cage with them and interact with them in the wheel. Eventually your sugar glider baby should go and investigate the new surroundings, you should stay within hearing and seeing range of animal until he/she is use to the new situation. You could put him/her on the rope to run and talk and re-assure them that it is all right to do play time.
STEP 11 :
BABY EATING CRICKET(TREAT) ON YOUR SHOULDER:
Some gliders may already be eating a treat on you, depending on when you give treat(to curb taste nips). Some tame gliders take a longer time before they will eat while sitting on you. The baby sugar glider has to feel comfortable with your body movements, before it will sit up and eat a cricket on your shoulder, or while sitting in your hand or hanging on to the front of your shirt. If baby comes to the front of your shirt, I always cup my hand under animal for balance(usually I have adult with babies on her). It’s hard to eat live cricket and hang on to you at the same time, especially eating with two hands. I suggest when you give the cricket you stand still while he/she is trying to eat it. If it doesn’t eat the treat on you I would not be too concerned about it, sooner or later they will come around to eating on you probably will make their happy sound. They have to trust your body movements enough so they don’t feel like they will fall off, especially sitting up and eating with two hands. You could try sitting in your glider bonding chair, that way you are stationary and there is no sudden movement when they are eating cricket(treat).
CONCLUSION:
The previous steps of training(bonding) is the way I bond to my baby sugar gliders and to my adult sugar gliders, although I start when mom has them oop for one day or less(sometimes they are at the in/out stage). I used the same steps on a rescued glider a woman gave me, because she was scared of crabbing and lunging at her. I also used this style of bonding on my first glider I got back in the year 2000(named Sugie). The rescued glider named Penny(she was so small by my standards for eight weeks), now she rides in my t-shirt pouch and goes shopping with me. She is a little apprehensive when I take her out to show people(she runs back in the pouch). She has her first two babies in the pouch, might be the reason for being a little unsure. Sugie my first one always jumps on my back as I walk into her cage and starts to scent me all over. At times she has left big wet spots on me when she sqwaggle’s me(it’s not pee, there is a difference). The point to these stories is that the steps worked on two different gliders and should work for you. I think the key to success is patience, repetition, consistently do the same ritual over and over again. Your glider may bond in one week(truly bonded would be hard to do in this short of time) or it may take many months. Actually I don’t think you ever stop bonding to your pet sugar glider, it is a continuous thing you do every time you pick them up, it tightens the bond. The more you handle your baby after recognition period the tamer(bonded) your pet will be. You can advance through the steps faster if you have gotten positive results through recognition step. If you are in their box more often than time specified you probably will be able to advance to the next step sooner. I have just gave you a slow guideline to follow and the signs to watch for as you are training(bonding) your new baby or adult sugar glider. If baby shows signs of being friendlier sooner, then go to next step, if you are going to speed up steps and it is too fast baby will let you know by doing bad(scared) behavior. Scared behavior could be as follows: crabbing, lunging and/or biting, and continuously taste nipping, jumping off or running away after adjustment and scent recognition period. If baby didn’t crab at previous step and then starts, you may be going too fast. If baby was crabbing and suddenly stops after seeing you then try next step. I think every gliding bonding experience is different. You know the babies attitude, you know if it is scared, you should see the changes as it gets used to you. If baby comes to you and climbs on don’t push away because you may not be on that step, just go with the flow, maybe baby is ready to go on to next step. A reminder as you go in to the cage and box(or sleeping pouch) talk to it, make your “noise”. You do this every time and for the life of the sugar glider. When you pick them up do the same things and I like to pet them for re-assurance before I put them in their go pouch. I hope this method will be successful for you as it is for me and all my pets(breeders) and my tightly and extremely bonded(trained) little fur balls of joy. Good luck and stick with your rituals and the amount of time spent each day.
Something I forgot is at night as you are doing recognition steps you could interact with baby through cage bars if baby is willing if baby runs to back of cage then don’t force it, but if baby comes to front of cage you could give treat or talk to it through the cage and this would help bonding process.
Written by Art/daddy glider
New Age Sugar gliders
Admin/arthur- Admin
- Join date : 2010-07-19
Location : fl
Posts : 99
Age : 65 -
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